Here are some miscellaneous bits about some of the more general modifications and issues with the XR250..........
Q: What bodywork / replacement plastic is available for the XR250?A: You can get stock replacement plastic from your local Honda dealer, or you can get aftermarket plastic from companies like Acerbis, Maier, or IMS. Following is a description of what's generally available and most of the color choices:
Acerbis: Lower fork covers (85-98 white), Side panels (96-98 black,white,red), Skid plates (92-97 white), Fork blades (90-98 white), Disc guards (96-98 purple, white, black), Frame guards (92-98 white), Front fenders (90-98 black,red,purple,white,silver), Fuel tanks (88-98 white), Rear fenders (90-98 white,black,red).
IMS: Enduro series fuel tanks, 4.9 gallons (84-95 natural,orange,red,white) and their 4.0 gallon tank (84-98 black,blue,natural,orange,red,white).
Maier: Front fender (86-98), Read fender (81-82, 86-95), Disc guard (84-98), Side panels (86-98), Headlight shells w/numberplate (84-95). All Maier plastic is available in black,blue,flash red,green,purple,red,white,yellow.
Q: What handlebars work well with the XR250 and are the stockers ok??A: The stock handlebars are good old plain steel, and will hold up for a long time, through many crashes (don't ask..) so are great when you're learning, but they are pretty heavy. Many companies like Renthal, Answer, Moose, and White Brothers all offer aftermarket bars for the XR that are quite a bit lighter, and in some cases offer better shock absorption. A popular choice for the XR250 is an aftermarket bar in the "CR-High" bend style. These bars have a taller rise, and are more comfortable if you're spending a lot of time standing up (you are, aren't you?).
Q: What handlebar guards are available?A: Many companies such as Summers Racing, Maier, and Moose offer guards for the levers and bar ends to fit most any handlebar. Most guards are anodized aluminum, and can be purchased with or without additional plastic shrouds to guard your hands from flying roost. They all generally do a good job of protecting your levers and hands from brush, and the addition of the plastic guards works great for mud. Summers Racing has a different type of inboard mount available that bolts to the top triple clamp, rather than the handlebars, to theoretically allow the bars to flex as designed, without the restriction of bar mounted clamps.
Q: Are there any issues with the stock chain and sprockets?A: The stock chain (as delivered on the 96-98 XR) is a D.I.D 520 o-ring chain, and holds up quite well if cleaned regularly and kept well lubricated with your favorite chain chemistry. The sprockets seem to wear out a little faster than the aftermarket units, these being available from companies such as Renthal, Answer, and Sprocket Specialists. If you are replacing one sprocket, it is a good idea to replace the other and the chain all at once to promote even wear.
Q: Are the brakes adequate for all types of riding or racing?A: The light weight of the XR250R generally does not require any larger brakes, or any changes in the braking system save for stainless steel brakelines, which are a big help to any braking system. The stainless lines do not expand as much under braking as the stock lines, and front braking power is improved by going to SS lines. Companies like Fastline and Lockhart Phillips manufactures complete brakeline assemblies for the XR, or you can build your own with parts from WM engineering using Earl's performance banjo fittings and SS line.
Aftermarket brake pads are available from companies like EBC or Braking, but the stock pads seem to work very well under most circumstances.
Q: What can be done to prolong the life of my motor?A: The XR motors can run hot under prolonged WFO use in some climates. The best insurance policy for your motor is fresh, high quality oil. This will help minimize wear on internal moving parts, such as decreasing the center cam journal pocket wear on the head. Following is some good advice on oil sent in by one owner:
One one XR I built I had probably went a little too far and I ran very hot even though it was jetted correctly. It would eat cams and cam followers. I tried sending the cams and followers away to speed shops and have the hard surfaced and that wasn't successful and after a couple of time doing this and blowing a ton of money I decided I had to try something else. This was several years ago when about the only synthetic oil I had available was Belray. It absolutely solved the problem. Anytime I would have the engine open after that to inspect the cam a followers I could not detect any wear at all. So, I run all my XR's on synthetic oil. Presently I am running Mobil 1 because it is readily available and I can get it at Walmart at a decent price and change it often. [Thx Jack Hixon]
Back to Home