General XR200 Information.

Please note: The bulk of this information has been collected from various sources around the internet and may contain errors.  Before acting on any of this info confirm it with your qualified bike mechanic or Honda dealer.

1998 XR200R

2000 XR200R

• The twin shock XR185 was introduced in 1979 becoming the twin shock XR200 the following year
• The standard twin shock cradle XR200 was produced from 1980 to 1984.
• The XR200R was built from 1981 and was the first XR200 with prolink suspension
• The early R models were equipped with a fender mounted tool bag ('81 to '88)
• The '84 and later XR200R had a full cradle chassis (greatly improved geometry and rigidity) with the same 53.5" wheelbase but with a reduced rake of 2.5° for sharper steering.
• The '84 XR200R had new weeel hubs and larger forks (36mm Kayaba) and the remote resevoir shock had compression and rebound adjustment.
  
• The '84 XR200R
  
• The  84 & 84 XR200R's had a scaled down version of the XR250R RFVC motor (Dual carb, 4 valve, 4 port)
• They produced more power and improved throttle response than the 2 valve engines, but are generally less popular due to issues with overheating, cracked heads, difficulty in obtaining parts and are arguably troublesome to tune.
• After Honda discontinued the RFVC 200s they added an oil cooler to the RFVC 250's.
• If you are looking at an RFVC XR200R a newer XR250 with oil cooler may be a better option.
  
• All years other than 84/85 were the 195cc 2 valve motor.
• The 86 XR200R was essentially the 84/85 frame adapted to suit the 2 valve engine (20lbs lighter)
• The 86 motor colour was changed from Black to Silver.
• There weren't any XR200R's Produced in 1989 or 1992.
• The 1986 and later XR200Rs have a longer counter shaft (i.e. the sprocket is spaced out approx 0.2")  This would allow more room in the rear, possibly to run larger tyres.
• The 1986 and later XR200Rs also dont have the foot peg mounting bosses.
  
• The 1990 on return had been hit by honda cost cutting of that era, the 93 and on bikes also appear to have suffered cost cutting (the 93 and on shock had no clickers or resevoir on shock)
• There was a change to the Right  crank bearing fit in '94.  The crank/right is not compatible with earlier models.
  
• The models having lighting equipment (eg: head & taillights) were 1981 thru 1988.  Optional on the '90&'91'.  Australian models kept the headlight and tail light.
• Electrical System
• 81-83 XR200Rs have a six volt system and a 25 watt headlight.
• 86 onwards are 12 volt. The CDI units, coils, rotors and stators all have different part numbers between early and later XRs
• 2000 - Suspension travel reduced again (how much?)

* Alternate sources suggest the PD28A did have interchangeable pilot jetting
**  Honda manual is said to suggest 4th groove

Popular 2 valve engine mods:

Easiest mods:     1/  Replace the standard filter with a free flowing Uni-Filter, No Toil, Twin Air or similar foam filter.     2/  Remove the Induction Cap (item 11 in image on the right hand side), leaving the Induction Duct (item 10) in place.                                                    It may be possible to sensibly modify the Induction Duct (item 10), but keep in mind                                                    that it performs a important function in helping to keep dust, mud, water and other                                                    debris from entering the airbox.     3/  Rejet - Presuming that all other motor/intake/exhaust components are stock                      going up 1 jet size on the Pilot and Main Jet from standard  seems to                      be the accepted ballpark rejetting required.     4/  Exhaust - There are a few different aftermarket pipes and header pipes available, but for the cheapest and easiest                         change grind the weld off the inside of the header where it connects to the head and remove the cap on                         the rear ( by removing 2 x 8mm bolts )  As with most exhaust modifications, it usually makes the bike                         louder.                           Obnoxiously loud or illegal bikes can hurt the sport / passtime.                         The baffle out of an ATC250R (years?) is meant to be less restrictive and bolts straight in.

Exhaust:

• I read about one guy taking a 1/4" drill bit and making 4 holes (at 12,3,6,9 o'clock) on the flat area between the exhaust tip and the outside edge of the muffler.  I have not tried this.

Boring/Stroking:

• On a stock Cylinder anything over 66mm the sleeve starts getting thin and has been said to be questionable in terms of reliability particularly for high performance.
• Aftermarket sleeves can be sourced for reliable boring beyond 66mm, although check if crankcase modifications are required.
• The Powroll 218 kit appears to be a popular and reliable option. The big bore high comp. stroker and torque cam has claims of up to 50% more torque.

Lighting:
*  You may be able to upgrade early 6Volt XRs by changing to a 12Volt AC regulator and swapping bulbs.

Motor information Links:
* Chuck @ Thumpertalk's 218 build page (Fantastic post, a must read)

Micro Fiche's:
So'Cal XR's Parts Fiche online  - http://www.socalxrs.com/Parts%20Fiche%20XR200/index.htm

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XR185/200/200R parts compatibility:
From what I have read on the www the two valve engines from 80 through to 02 are quite similar.  Double check with dealer / mechanic prior to purchasing.


2 Valve cylinder heads:
All XR185/200/R Cylinder heads will fit interchangably between the two valve motors.  There are some difference in the frame mount though.
79-84 twin shock XR200's have a different width top motor mount (~42mm wide) than the 86-02 XR200R's (~36mm wide)  (81 to 83 XR200R's width??)
79-84 twin shock XR200's also have a different intake manifold than the 86 and on pro link models  (81 to 83 XR200R's as well??)
83-84 XL200R heads are also claimed to be the same as an early XR200 (80-84) head.
ATC185-200 heads may also be interchangeable, check using accurate parts fiche's first.
Some heads may not have a decompressor setup, running without this may lead to kickstarter mechanism problems.

2 Valve Motor Cylinder Heads

Top mount width

79

80

81

82

83

84

85

86

87

88

90

91

93

94

95

96

97

98

99

00

01

02

12000-427-305

42mm?

XR185 XL185S

XR200 XL185S ATC185*

XR200 XL185S ATC185* ATC200*

XR200 XL185S ATC185* ATC200* ATC200E*

XL185S ATC200* ATC200E*

ATC200M* ATC200E* ATC200S

ATC200M* ATC200S

ATC200S

12000-KA2-305

??mm

XR200R

XR200R

XR200 XL200R XR200R

XR200 XL200R

12000-KTO-305

36mm?

XR200R

XR200R

12000-KT0-306

36mm?

XR200R

XR200R

XR200R

12000-KT0-307

36mm?

XR200R

XR200R

XR200R

XR200R

XR200R

XR200R

XR200R

XR200R

XR200R

1200-KT0-712

36mm?

XR200R

XR200R

12002-965-505

??mm

ATC200X**

ATC200X**

ATC200X**

                                                        * Manual Decompressor                    ** No Decompression                               Checked on Partzilla, CMSNL & megazip


Cylinders compatibility and information:
* 80-83 & 86-02 appear to all bolt up and share same bore sizes, height and oil passages
             * 94 and on have 2 dowels rather than 3 of the earlier models.
* 194cc cylinders are OEM, be carefull of chinese cylinders online
* Apparently almost any of the 185-200 2 valve cylinders from XL/XR/ATC will fit and even the 185cc cylinders will bore to 65.5 but may require two passes.
            * XR185 has 180cm3 on the rear of the cylinder
            * Early XR200R has 195cm2 on the rear of the cylinder
            * 86-87 XR200R cylinder marking unknown
            * 88-02 XR200R has 194cm3 on the cylinder
            * ATC200 has 192cm3 on cylinder for big and small fin models
                    * The 83-85 ATC200 cylinder are said to fit and some (apparently not all) have larger cooling fins, but the 86 and on changed and wont fit.
* Over 66mm the sleeve starts to get thin and is questionable for high performance, the sleeves have been known to fail on bores over 66.
* Oil leaking/weeping is a common problem on the two valve bikes on the right rear cylinder stud as it is part of the oil feed to the head.
            *  Evidently there are o-ring and non o-ring (close fit around dowel) base gaskets availalbe.  Sealant may be required.

2 Valve Cylinder Heads and associated parts  (No 2 valves in 85,89 & 92)

79

80

81

82

83

84

86

87

88

90

91

93

94

95

96

97

98

99

00

01

02

Cyl. Head

12100-427-010

185(1)

12100-446-772

200(1)

200(1)

200(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

12100-KA2-010

200R(1)

200R(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1)

1200-KT0-000

200R(1)

200R(1)

Head Gasket

12251-427-P00

185(1)

12251-KT0-P00

200(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

12251-KT0-711

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

Base Gasket

12191-KT0-711

185(1)

200(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

12191-KT0-710

200R(1)

200R(1)

94301-10200 Dowell (10x20)

185(3)

200(3)

200(3) 200R(3)

200(3) 200R(3)

200(3) 200R(3)

200(3)

200R(3)

200R(3)

200R(3)

200R(3)

200R(3)

200R(2)

200R(2)

200R(2)

200R(2)

200R(2)

200R(2)

200R(2)

200R(2)

200R(2)

200R(2)

91301-200-000 O-Ring (10x1.6)

185(1)

200(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1) 200R(1)

200(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

200R(1)

Table checked using partzila and hondapartshouse.com                        Items in red are superceded and replaced by item in black



Crankshaft timing Chain Sprocket:
* Engines up to and including 1988 use a 20mm ID crankshaft timing chain sprocket (88: 14311-958-000)
* Engines 1990 and after use a 22mm ID crankshaft timing chain sprocket  (90: 14311-KJ2-300)
Note: There is some conflicting information online as to whether the breakpoint for this change was on the introduction of the 1990 or 1994 model
          I haven't been able to find any part number changes on the crank between the 88 and 90 models but I have found fiches that confirm
          the change despite there being no corresponding crank part number changes.  For this reason I think it is also believed that the change
          occured in 1994 when the crank / bearing fit was changed.


Kickstart Mechanism:
* In approx 86 the kicker shaft and lever changed (Kickstart bolt changed from 6x22 to 8x25)
* In approx 87 the kicker gear ratios chandged and were widened (Gears changed from 30/28/19T to 21/19/14T)
* A late kicker can be modified to suit an earlier bike.


Cases:
* Early side cases (pre 86) were painted black inside and out
* 86 and on side cases were painted silver outside.
* 86 Center case part numbers changed, left case cover changed for new stator.
* Early Right hand side cases may not fit on 86 and on motors due to clearance issues (possible with kickstart mechanisms)
* 94 RH crank case changed.  This was related to the Right Hand main bearing and crank change. Serial 5705049 (or 5708410??) & on. First 94=Ser.No.5704992
                                               Right hand side sidecover appears to have stayed the same (11330-KT0-830)
                                               RH Crankcase, RH Crank, RH bearing and cam sprocket all changed.


Frame / Drive:
* The 86 and up XR200R's have a longer countershaft (~ 1/4") and the frames don't have the footpeg bosses.  This may affect motor swaps between years.


Paint:
* In 86 the motor was painted silver instead of black.


CDI & Rotor:
* In 86 the electical system went to 12 volts and the alternator output double to 100watts (this may differ on AU models)
* In 86 the CDI system also changed.  CDI parts are said not to be interchangeable between pre and post 86 bikes.
* Stick to the correct XR200 ignition modules ( 'KTO' in part number) other modules may be troublesome or not work.
* The 86 and later rotor is 10oz (283.5g) heavier.  To use this an 86 and later Left Hand sidecover, CDI module, harness, and coil need to be used.
* On non AU models when the headlight and tail light were dropped the lighting coil was left on the stator.
* In the 90's ('94?) the lighting section of the stator was changed to a two wire output system which simplifies having a DC system, no rotor and cover change though.
             * AU fiches indicate 31120-KT0-831 was used from 1993 to 2001, but it is possible AU models had this all along?


Fork Leg Sizes (diameter):
80-84 XR200 - 31mm
81-83 XR200R - 35mm
84-02 XR200R - 36mm
* from http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=20950.0 - requires checking

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2 Valve Motor Identification:

Early motors are painted black inside and out.
The left case near the center (by the oil drain) has the engine serial number, the first four characters are the model code. The numbers under this are the serial number.

Two valve Model motor codes:
MD02 - XL185S B-D (USA / Canada)
MD06 - XL200R D-E
MD09 - TLR 200 D-H
MD10 - XL200 FMD (New Zealand)
ME02 - XR185 Z / XR 200 B-E 79-84
ME04 - XR200R B-D 81-83
ME05 - XR200R E-J + L-P (84-88,90-93 to #5705049)
ME05 - XR200R R-2 (94-02 #5705049 and on)
TB01 - ATC185 A / S B-D
TB05 - ATC200 B-D /E C-D / X D-H /S E-G /M E-F /ES E-F
TD05 - ATC200E C-E /ES E-F /X D-H
TD05 - ATC200E C-E /ES E-F /X D-H
TE03 - TRX200E /SX F-J
TE17 - TRX200 L-M Fourtrax / D M-P Fourtrax

To identify the model year, Honda has added some logic to their model names. The last character refers to the year, also tenth character in the VIN.

Z = 1979 H = 1987 S = 1995 3 = 2003 A = 1980 J = 1988 T = 1996 4 = 2004 B = 1981 K = 1989 V = 1997 5 = 2005 C = 1982 L = 1990 W = 1998 6 = 2006 D = 1983 M = 1991 X = 1999 7 = 2007 E = 1984 N = 1992 Y = 2000 8 = 2008 F = 1985 P = 1993 1 = 2001 9 = 2009 G = 1986 R = 1994 2 = 2002

Redbook guide for ME05E models: 5000001~ =84 5500001~ =90 5714097~ =96 5100001~ =85 5600001~ =91 5719334~ =97 5200001~ =86 5700001~ =93 5800001~ =98 5300001~ =87 5704992~ =94 58119xx is 2000 5400001~ =88 5708833~ =95

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XR200 Parts Links & Info

Honda Part Numbers Explanation

http://www.wiseco.com/	Powroll FACEBOOK page	http://www.megacyclecams.com	http://www.xrsonly.com
Kibblewhite Precision Machining	http://www.webcamshafts.com	http://www.rdvalvespring.com	Sudco - carburettor sales
http://www.knfilters.com	EBC Brakes	Hagon Shocks
http://www.sprocketspecialists.com	http://www.ngksparkplugs.com	http://www.supertrapp.com	http://www.terrycable.com
www.buchananspokes.com		http://www.barnettclutches.com	http://www.unifilter.com
http://www.ceetracing.com	http://www.maier-mfg.com	http://www.worksperformance.com/html/dirt.html
http://www.powersportsplace.com	http://www.masterecia.com.br/content/xr-200-strada-200  (Portuguese)

Changing 2 valve XR200 Crank timing chain sprockets

Getting the Clutch cover back onto your 2 Valve XR200

XR200 Wheel Bearings

Item.	XR200R 81-2002 *
Rear left bearing	Sealed 6303  (47mm OD x 17mm ID x 14mm Wide)
Rear right bearing	Sealed 6203 ( 40mm OD x 17mm ID x 12mm Wide)
Rear Dust Seal	Oil Seal 25x40x7
Front left bearing	Sealed 6202 (15x35x11)
Front right bearing	Sealed 6202 (15x35x11)
Rear Dust Seal	Oil Seal 20x35x7 (Arai)

* Years 1993, 2000, 2001 Checked on Honda Microfiches (AU)

Tip: Aluminium ring in front of bearing on the real wheel is a screwed retainer and needs to be unscrewed, not driven out.

XR200R Suspension Parts

Forks

79-83 XR185/200/R's used Kayaba 35mm damper rod forks.
84-02 XR200R forks are all Kayaba 36mm damper rod forks, they varied in design as shown by the table below.  

Year	Travel	Damper Rod (Pipe, Seat)	Stanchion (Pipe Comp Front Fork)	R Slider (Case Comp RH)	L Slider (Case Comp LH)	Springs (Spring Front Cushion)	Rebound Springs	Spacers
84	10.0"	51440-KK0-004	51410-KK0-004	51420-KK0-004	51520-KK0-004	51401-KK0-004 & 51402-KK0-004 (two springs each leg)	51411-KK0-004	N/A
85	10.0"	51440-KK0-004	51410-KK0-004	51420-KK0-004	51520-KK0-004		51411-KK0-004	N/A
86	10.0"	51440-KT0-671	51410-KK0-004	51420-KK0-004	51520-KK0-004	51401-KT0-671 single two rate springs each leg	51411-KK0-004	N/A
87	10.0"	51440-KT0-671	51410-KK0-004	51420-KK0-004	51520-KK0-004	51401-KT0-671 single two rate springs each leg	51411-KK0-004	N/A
88	10.0"	51440-KT0-671	51410-KK0-004	51420-KK0-004	51520-KK0-004	51401-KT0-671 single two rate springs each leg	51411-KK0-004	N/A
Not Made	------	------	------	------	------	-------	-------	------
90	10.0"	51440-KT0-671	51410-KK0-004	51420-KK0-004	51520-KK0-004	51401-KT0-831	51411-KK0-004	N/A
91	10.0"	51440-KT0-671	51410-KK0-004	51420-KK0-004	51520-KK0-004	51401-KT0-831	51411-KK0-004	N/A
Not Made	------	------	------	------	------	------	------	------
93	8.2"	All: 51440-KT0-671 U: 51440-KT0-691	All: 51410-KT0-004 U:  51410-KT0-691	51420-KK0-004	515420-KK0-004	All: 51401-KT0-831 U: 51401-KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	51402-ML0-004
94	8.2"	U & All: 51440-KT0-691	U & All: 51410-KT0-691	51420-KK0-004	515420-KK0-004	U & All: 51401-KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	U & All: 51402-ML0-004
95	8.2"	U & All: 51440-KT0-691	U & All: 51410-KT0-691	51420-KK0-014	51520-KK0-014	U & All: 51401-KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	U & All: 51402-ML0-004
96	8.2"	U & All: 51440-KT0-691	U & All: 51410-KT0-691	51420-KK0-014	51520-KK0-014	U & All: 51401-KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	U & All: 51402-ML0-004
97	8.2"	51440-KT0-691	51410-KT0-691	51420-KK0-014	51520-KK0-014	51401-KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	U & All: 51402-ML0-004
98	8.2"	51440-KT0-691	51410-KT0-691	51420-KK0-014	51520-KK0-014	51401-KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	U & All: 51402-ML0-004
99	8.2"	51440-KT0-691	51410-KT0-691	51420-KK0-014	51520-KK0-014	51401-KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	U & All: 51402-ML0-004
00	?	51440-KT0-691	51410-KT0-691	51420-KK0-014	51520-KK0-014	51401-KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	U & All: 51402-ML0-004
01	?	51440-KT0-691	51410-KT0-691	51420-KK0-014	51520-KK0-014	51401-KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	U & All: 51402-ML0-004
02	?	51440-KT0-691	51510-KT0-691	51420-KK0-014	51520-KK0-014	51401_KT0-691	51411-KK0-004	U & All: 51402-ML0-004

U: Australia
Table compiled from info at   https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/topic/1224768-year-2000-xr200r/  & Various other resources  (Green is checked with AU Honda Fiches)  (checked with online fiches)

Fork Fluid type and levels

Year	Fluid	Nominal level	Min Level	Max Level
86-91	350cc (11.8oz) of ATF	150mm (5.9")	170mm (6.7")	140mm (5.5")
93-99	377cc (12.8oz) of ATF	116mm (4.6")	159mm (6.3")	108mm (4.3")

Shock

YEAR	SPRING NUMBER	SHOCK NUMBER
81	?	52410-KA2-681
82	?
83	?
84	?	52410-KK0-014
85	?
86	52401-KT0-671	52410-KT0-771 (Replaces -671)
87
88	52401-KT0-681ZA (R119 red)	52410-KT0-682 (Replaces -681)
90
91
93	52401-KT0-691	52410-KT0-691
94
95	52401-KT0-761
96
96	52401-KT0-A01
97
98
99
00
01
02

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Old School Al's (OSA) Cam chain tensioner mod:

I've recently been working on a 2000 XR200R that had a slipped camchain resulting in bent valves.  I can only assume this bike was again the victim of the XR200R's reliability and ridden mercilessly until it finally stopped. During this project I've learn't alot about these little XR's, much of which is from reading posts on thumpertalk by Chuck, Old School Al and several others that post over there.  They are, and there is a wealth of knowledge over there on these great little bikes. During the process for obvious reasons I went over the entire camchain/sprocket and tensioner assemblies.  The chain had been slapping around and had chewed the camchain cavity in the cylinder some and both gears were clearly worn and required replacing.  After reading a bunch on how to tension the chain it became apparent that over time  the tensioner set bar (6) and or spring (5) can get worn or lose tension respectively.  Upon inspection the tensioner set bar (6) it was found to have a number of  sharp gouges/marks in it that appeared to have been caused by the collars (10). Old School Al came up with a suggestion that I'm going to try. (Refer to this post at thumpertalk) He removed the two collars/wedges (10) using a magnet to get the top one and a shop vacuum cleaner to get the second lower one.  Please note that he used a piece of wire poked in the threaded M3 hole in the top of the tensioner set bar (6) and bent to the side to try and capture it as it got sucked out.  As Al mentiones in his post it may also pay to empty the vacuum bag beforehand just in case it ends up in there.  I had the sidecover, flywheel and camchain off mine so I carefully used some mechanics picks to get them out. Once you have the collars (10) out, use a dremel or similar to smooth out and radius the sharp chamfered edges of the hole on the angled side of the locks cleaning them up with a small sanding disc or emery paper afterwards, don't go crazy just get rid or the sharp edges.  This should stop them damaging the tensioner set bar (6) when they are tightened/clamped to the correct torque spec. (19NM / 14fl/lb ???) On mine the one shown I will either clean the damage up on the tensioner set bar (6) pictured below, or possible even replace it with a new unit.  Some of the Damage is highlighted with a red circle. Note: There is an M3 threaded hole in the end of the tensioner set bar (10).  The M6x10 bolt and washer (15 & 13) can be removed and a M3 (length?) bolt can be wound in to allow manual adjustment if the assembly is sticky.  I'm more in favour of getting the adjuster working as intended for my project.    Tensioner Collars (10) Tensioner set bar (6) - Click to enlarge

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Porting Info:

General consensus on basic DIY porting seems to be as follows:

Intake:     Clean up and casting marks or dags left over from the casting process     Port match intake manifold/insulator with the head (Install the manifold mark where there metal protrudes, remove then match and blend)     Don't polish the intake, the rough finish / dimples ecourages fuel deposited on the port walls to evaporate quickly and can alter flow something akin to dimples on a golf ball.     The intake port to the right shows examples of casting marks and a runner that can be cleaned and blended. Exhaust:     Clean up port casting marks or dags     Port match exhaust port to the header pipe     Polishing (smooth finishing) is considered a good thing with the exhaust ports because of the dry gas flow and helping to minimise by product build up.     Using around 400grit paper and a light buff is considered by some as "near optimal" for smooth finishing.     Around 80 to 120grit appears to be the consensus for intake port finishing. Chamber:     The surface in a combustion chamber should be smooth to promote heat retention in the chamber and prevent detonation hot spots from shar edges and rough surfaces. Polishing theory:     https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cylinder_head_porting

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Australian ADR compliant models (Fully Registerable)

Year	XR200	XR200R
1980	?
1981	?	? *
1982	?	Yes
1983	?	? *
1984	?	Yes
1985		Yes
1986		Yes
1987		no
1988		no

* I have seen a Compliance plate for a 1982 XR200R, ME04-51003**, and presume that the '81 and '83 are also ADR compliant bikes, but have not seen compliance plates to verify this yet.

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Known Issues:

*   2001 XR200R models are said to have a problem where the crank slips out of alignment due to a fit problem from the factory, causing the lower sprocket to "wobble" causing the camchain to start "slapping" which eventually results in the tensioner breaking at the bottom.  Old School Al over at Thumpertalk has seen this happen and heard or several others doing the same thing.  On this model it has been suggested that it is worthwhile to ensure the end of the crank is running true.  Rotate the crankshaft and watch the flywheel, if it's bent enough to break tensioner / guide it should be evident by eye.

* Pre '97 in models in particular are known to have kickstart gear failures.  It is important to keep the anti decompression mechanism operating and adjusted correctly to minimise stress on the gears during starting.